New York Hybrid Grapes: Cheers and Challenges

All winemakers that were interviewed highlighted that hybrids, with their versatility, lack of preconceived expectations, and lower financial barriers, are ideal for experimentation and innovation. This flexibility allows them to create novel wines that consumers love and that sell out annually, making it easier to develop a diverse product portfolio.

One winemaker noted that hundreds of years of experience with Riesling have established clear expectations for the wine, whereas Cayuga White, with only four or five decades of history, is still defining its identity. This lack of preconceived expectations gives room for experimentation with interesting styles, and new ways to showcase local grapes – something that a new generation of consumers seems to value immensely. 

“I think people are embracing the chaotic nature of wine. Maybe we just need to be a little bit looser with things and see what happens. I think this is reflected in our product and it's made it better,” said Plummer. “The more people are willing to kind of step outside of the rigid recipe to make a 90 plus point wine, the more cool stuff we're gonna come up with, and I think customers want to see you take that chance. At least the younger ones do.”

This was not the only instance that a “younger generation” of consumers was mentioned. All winemakers remarked on the notable shift in consumer mindset and priorities. Some interviewees described consumers as seeming more adventurous, curious, and open-minded. Winemakers with a few decades of experience particularly commented on the shifts they have witnessed regarding hybrid perception.

“A lot has changed in the last 20 years,” said Craig Hosbach, winemaker at Fox Run Vineyards. “They don't come in asking for Chardonnay or Merlot, like maybe their parents did before them.” 

The selling points that hybrids create a more sustainable future for our industry, as well as that they are cultivars unique to our region which thrive locally, help create a particularly appealing narrative as well.

"The older generation wants what everybody around them has as a status symbol, and the younger crowd is looking for a status symbol with totally different parameters,” said Plummer. “They want something that nobody else has seen before, because that's the key to cool for them. It's not mirroring what their peers are doing. It's bringing something totally new to the table, and we can nail that with hybrids all the time.” 

A scrappy story of underdogs, hybrids offer an engaging and unique narrative that resonates with an evolving consumer base. However, several potential pitfalls threaten the burgeoning hybrid renaissance.

First, the price point. Historically, hybrid wines in the Finger Lakes have been priced lower than V. vinifera, which seems to cause some perception-related issues. Yet, it's a challenging issue to address, as even a modest increase of a dollar in retail price (or 50 cents in distribution price) can lead to a significant drop in sales.

“We're telling people they're cheaper. We're telling people their quality isn't as good by doing that,” said Hosbach. “So we're apologizing and we don't realize we're doing it. If we're charging $20 for a bottle of Riesling, we should be charging $20 for a bottle of Traminette.” 

The key factor here, of course, is the wine quality. Some winemakers remarked on the success they’ve witnessed when hybrids are priced the same as V. vinifera – and they sell, because the quality is there.

 “Where is the ceiling?” Plummer wonders. “It's proving to everybody that it can be done. It's just a matter of committing to it.”

The second concern was on the risk of accidental bias due to confusion from the term ‘hybrid’. Although these unique cultivars have a great story behind them, many consumers confuse the term ‘hybrid’ with GMOs, which can incite undue bias. If the hybrid term is used, an explanation often needs to accompany it.

 “Why even mention it? It's a locally grown grape, you know? I think it's that easy. Pinot Gris is actually a mutation of Pinot noir, but we don't explain that. So why are we talking about ‘the hybrid’?” mused Hosbach.

Considering this insight, the question is whether there is a future where the narrative no longer separates V. vinifera from non-vinifera, if wine quality is present- which leads to the third concern. While many hybrids produce consistent, high-quality wines, this isn't true for all. Three interviewees shared cautionary tales of grapes planted in the Finger Lakes decades ago because they grew well, before the wine industry caught up. Early plantings of inferior varieties overshadow the potential of newer, higher-quality hybrids. Some believe the region should focus on high-quality cultivars that make good wine, not just what grows well, which would also aid name recognition. Achieving this would require time, money, and organization.

The fourth and perhaps greatest challenge is the barrier hybrid-based wines face in wine magazines, liquor stores, and restaurants. Winemakers unanimously felt that consumer perception of hybrids is positive, and that consumers either don’t know or don’t care about the parentage and species of the grape as long as wine quality delivers. But as soon as the conversation arises with industry taste-makers, hybrids are met with bias, leading winemakers to avoid submitting their hybrid wines for scoring altogether. 

None of these challenges can be resolved overnight, just as wine culture itself didn't emerge overnight. The narrative we craft around hybrids will significantly influence their development in the coming decades. As the global conversation on hybrid grapes and wine grows amidst a rapidly changing climate, what story will we tell? How do we balance tradition and innovation in the evolving wine industry?

As Ben Riccardi, owner of Osmote Winery eloquently put it, “Not hybrids versus vinifera. Hybrids with vinifera. A unified path forward to increased acreage and better vineyard sustainability.”