Native ‘superfruits’ present opportunities for NY growers, consumers

Though uncommon in the U.S., elderberries are widely grown throughout Europe and used as a traditional medicine, especially to treat colds and flus. Honeyberries are grown commercially in Canada, Russia and Japan, where they are called “the elixir of life,” Davis said. Juneberries are also grown in Canada, though they are native throughout North America, with at least one species native to every U.S. state except Hawaii.

Davis worked with Michael Burgess, associate professor of biological sciences at SUNY Plattsburgh, to establish New York’s first and only juneberry research nursery at Willsboro, one of nine research farms across New York operated by the Cornell University Agricultural Experiment Station (Cornell AES). In 2013 and 2014, the pair traveled from Maine to Pennsylvania to Michigan collecting wild juneberry seeds. They also added commercial fruit-producing and ornamental juneberry varieties. 

“Our goal was to create a native nursery of plant specimens that we thought might be good fruit producers,” Davis said. 

In 2017, the Willsboro research team added six Aronia varieties and 19 honeyberries. In 2022, they added five American and two European varieties of elderberry. 

Collectively, these four fruits can provide an almost-continuous fruit crop from early June to late September. The long-term trials at the North Country nursery are intended to aid development of best-management practices for each fruit, with considerations for soil type, weather conditions, pest and disease pressures, and other factors.

Davis said that partnerships with growers are a key part of the project.

“Some market growers are trying them, selling at farmers markets or doing you-picks. And it is growing, but slowly, as people become aware of what’s out there,” he said.

Duane Smith, owner of Seaway Coldhardy Grapes in Evans Mills, New York, started farming in 2005 with the goal of finding cold-tolerant fruits suitable for northern New York. He grows grapes and honeyberries on his 5-acre farm.

“What fascinates me with honeyberries is the fact that they can be coated with ice crystals, they wilt slightly, but if it warms up later, they will recover. If it was blueberries, they’d be dead,” Smith said. “It’s been a very exciting time collaborating with the people in this area and with the Willsboro folks to find fruit varieties that will work in our climate.”

Dani Baker, owner of Cross Island Farms in Wellesley Island, New York, began farming in 2005 and raises livestock, vegetables, and an array of commercial and native fruits and nuts. Varieties of all of the superfruits being studied at Willsboro are planted at Cross Island Farms, which is one of six farm collaborators. Baker has discovered that juneberries don’t grow well in heavy clay soils and that deer have no interest in honeyberry fruits, perhaps because they get so much of its invasive honeysuckle cousin throughout forests. Davis has shared his success with planting millet as a cover crop to combat weeds, a strategy Baker has adopted in her garden. 

The most troublesome creature for all the superfruits is birds, and spongy moth caterpillars wreaked havoc on Willsboro’s juneberry plants last year.

“Honeyberries have been fabulous, and I’ve learned a lot about them,” Baker said. “They’re drought tolerant, no pests, no disease; they’re much more resilient than blueberries. Their juice runs magenta and melts in your mouth. I sell them for $5 for half a pint, and they fly off the stand.”

Growers and researchers see great potential for New York in these superfruits. For example, 95% of the elderberries consumed in the U.S. are imported from Europe, so there’s room for domestic market growth, Davis said. 

Smith sees opportunities in commercial processing, because many of the superfruits have dark red juices that could be used as natural dyes. 

“For people who have allergies or who just don’t want synthetic dyes in their foods, these could be used for juices, yogurt or other dairy products to create this beautiful purplish dye,” he said.

Native berries are also a great addition to farm stands and you-picks, Baker said.

“I think there’s a lot of opportunity because they’re so high in nutrients and many people are very conscious of the quality of the food they’re eating,” she said. “Also, customers are becoming more open to other things than just strawberries and blueberries.” 

“Part of our mission is just to educate people – growers and consumers – about what’s out there and available,” Davis said. “Because once you get a taste of it, you really get hooked.”

The specialty fruit nursery is funded by Cornell AES and by New York state through the Northern New York Agricultural Development Program.

Krisy Gashler is a freelance writer for the Cornell University Agricultural Experiment Station.